![]() |
|||||||||||||||||
Before paddling out, always assess the conditions and know your limits. Unlike other sports, your playing field is constantly changing. Two-foot mushburgers one day can be 10-foot meat grinders the next. Obviously, the most important element of this changing playing field is the waves. Waves are created by wind and storms out at sea. How these waves hit your local break are determined by a number of factors: bottom contour, tides and wind. Waves break over the following bottom contours: 1. Pointbreaks. Points usually occur where there's a dip in the headland, creating a bend in the coast. This tends to be the ideal case for surfers, since points have the potential to create perfect waves, which are characterized by long, tapering curls. One of the world's best pointbreaks is a spot called Jeffreys Bay in South Africa, where surfers ride waves at high speeds for as long as a half-mile. 2. Reefbreaks. A reefbreak is a wave that breaks over a rock or coral shelf. Due to its bottom, reefbreaks are consistent in their shape and location. Like all waves, reefbreaks vary in shape and size, but the world's best reefbreaks, such as the Banzai Pipeline on Oahu and Teahupoo in Tahiti, are some of the most amazing but dangerous spectacles on Earth. As a general rule, beginners should avoid reefbreaks. 3. Beachbreaks. Beachbreak waves break over a sand bottom and are commonly more erratic and shifty than reef or pointbreaks. With fewer hazards such as coral or rocks, though, beachbreaks are a good bet for beginners. The bottom's incline, or slope, also plays a major role in the way waves break, from soft, easy rollers to surging, unsurfable monsters. On the opposite ends of the spectrum, you have the following: 1. Plunging waves. A plunging wave occurs when the swell comes out of deep water and hits a shallow sandbar or reef. Ultimately, these are the waves that surfers look for. But since they break top to bottom and tend to be faster and more challenging, beginners should stay away from them. 2. Mushy waves. Mushy or slow-rolling waves are more desirable for beginners. Mushy waves occur when a swell approaches a more gradual bottom contour. Because mushy waves are softer and more forgiving, they allow for the fastest learning curve possible. 3. Other. Like Eskimos with snow, surfers have dozens of words to describe waves. For starters, there are a few you should know about. First, closeouts are waves that break all at once and, since they offer no tapering curl or open wave face, are not sought after by surfers. Second, reforms are waves that initially break over a shoal, back off into unbroken swell as they pass through deep water and then break again closer to shore. Reforms occur when a deeper trench connects two shallower sandbars or reefs. Huntington Beach Pier is a good place to see a textbook reform. Finally, double-ups are when two swells converge to form a thicker, steeper breaking wave closer to shore. Waimea Bay's shorebreak is probably the nastiest double-up on the planet. CURRENTS
1. Longshore currents. Longshore currents move up or down the beach, parallel to shore. They are generally stronger in the surf zone, so remember this when you're paddling out. Although they're more of a nuisance than a serious threat, longshore currents can be dangerous if you're near a pier, rock or jetty. If you're in a longshore current and are having trouble getting past the surf zone and see yourself approaching a large structure, exit the water immediately and walk back up the beach. The last thing you want to do is get caught between a hard place and the impact zone. 2. Rip currents. Rip currents are the most dangerous current for any beachgoer. They can be an asset or a major threat to your safety, depending on how you understand them. As broken waves wash toward shore, they carry a lot of water with them. The water pools up next to the beach and forms a longshore current on the inside. As the water moves up or down the beach, it will often funnel back out to sea in the deeper spots. This swift current goes straight out through the surf zone and dissipates once it's beyond the break. Rip currents are easy to spot. Because they're in deeper water, there are usually no waves breaking in rips. Also, you'll notice foam and rapid water moving out to sea; strong rip currents look like rivers in the middle of the surf zone. Near a reef, the rip might be in water that's a deeper blue. If you find yourself in a rip, don't try to swim against it -- it's almost impossible to swim faster than the speed of a strong rip, and the effort will only tire you out. The best way to get out of a rip is to swim up or down the beach, parallel to shore. If this still doesn't free you up, and you feel like you won't be able to get back to shore on your own, remember that the universal distress signal is the waving of one arm. TIDES
SIGNS
AND RESOURCES If you're surfing in an area with a lifeguard, there are two signs that you should be aware of: 1. Blackball. Like death and taxes, it's a sad but necessary part of life. A blackball flag, characterized by the black circle surrounded by a yellow background, means that hard surfboards are not allowed in the break. These tend to be prevalent at most populated beaches during summer. 2. Red flag. Red flags mean that the beach is closed due to hazardous conditions. If you see a red flag at your local break, consult the lifeguard before paddling out. Red flags may also mark a rip current. EQUIPMENT
Surf wax is used to prevent from slipping while you're up and riding. When you wax the deck or top of your board, move the bar in semi-circles so that small beads form. Try to keep the deck of the board cooler than the wax and it will apply much better. To maintain the rough texture, take a few passes with a wax comb before each go-out. Another option is surf traction. Traction minimizes the amount of wax you have to buy, plus it can help slow the inevitable process of delamination, or the separation of the board's fiberglass and foam. Just about every surfer uses a leash these days. Your leash should be a foot longer than your surfboard. Although they're helpful, leashes should never be treated as your only lifeline. Also, your leash can become a serious liability if it gets wrapped around a rock or reef when you're in the surf zone. A good option is the quick-release model. The easy-access tab will free you from danger in one quick pull. Other amenities: it's a good idea to invest in a noseguard for your board. The few extra bucks just may save an eye. Another good safety option is the urethane-lined fins. Everyone lands on his or her fins sooner or later, and the urethane may turn what would have been a trip to the hospital into a bruise or less. |
|||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||
| The
all-natural raceway: Jeffreys Bay.
|
|||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||
| This is where you don't want to be. Teahupoo, the world's deadliest reefbreak. | |||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||
| This is where you want to be: in the slow rollers of your local beachbreak. | |||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||
| Unfortunately, closeouts are the rule more than the exception in most coastal areas. | |||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||
| Watch at your own risk. Waimea shorebreak. | |||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||
| This is one kind of ripping that you don't want to be a part of. | |||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||
| Time to break out the sponge. | |||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||
| The one in the middle should be the board of your choice. | |||||||||||||||||
| Intro/Cross Training | Step 1 - On the Beach | ||||||||||||||||
| © Copyright 2000 / Swell.com / Use of this site is subject to the following Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy | |||||||||||||||||